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As it was considered ominous to store as memorabilia the garments linked to a loved ones death after the mourning period was over, women had to buy new garments every time a relative passed, keeping the mourning fashion trade alive

It is typically the fabric you would find in lingerie or nightgowns

Basically, it is going to be a single dress at some point, once you detach extra skirts, sleeves and so on

McFarlane, a military clothing historian who runs a Substack on the topic called "Combat Threads." The concept, he said, was that a shapeless, warm outer garment that fastens at the throat was much easier to wear with formal attire, especially if naval officers had to travel from ship to shore